Tuesday, January 27, 2015

No. 19

For my 19th birthday, my mom bought me Chanel No. 19. We visited Saks for an experience  - our store has one of seven Chanel perfume tables in the entire world that offer a unique presentation of the scents; they are presented for you to smell on ceramic so that no other smell contaminates the pure perfume, and the attendant has undergone extensive training about the ingredients and history of Chanel and her scents.

The Chanel expert explained to me the reasons behind the numbers (we are all familiar with Chanel No. 5 and No. 22 in addition to No. 19). I debated between buying No. 22 and No. 19 because, while I was turning 19 that day, my birthday is the 22nd of December. It seems that Chanel also valued her birthdate, since No. 19 is named in recognition of her own birthday, the 19th of August. No. 19 was Chanel's personal scent; only she wore it. She believed that scent was part of a memory and that you connect it with an event or person, so she decided to release it in her old age (1970, a year before her death when she was 88) so that people could later use it to remember and emulate her. I find this idea reflected in her words that Canac and Man mention, that "fashion passes, but style remains." While her brand has developed into a lasting powerhouse, I think Chanel wanted her scent to continue to be a reminder of her successful style.  Few people would argue that the style of Chanel will ever cease. While I like this comparison that I'm drawing, I find it a bit odd to use perfume in this example because the scent is ephemeral - it wears off after a while. However, even though the daily use of perfume wears off in its scent, the fact that so many incorporate it into their daily routines and continue to buy No. 19 to emulate her is a testament to her lasting success. Perhaps Fontaine touched on Chanel's inclination to symbolize and draw on her memory and notions of what remains during the flashbacks in the closing scene of her film.

People all over the world continue to demand Nos. 5 and 22, proving that these products have established themselves as remaining style, not passing fashion. The lady at the Chanel table told me that brides in 1922 France (when Chanel released the fragrance) liked the notes of white flowers, especially since white signified virginity. Coincidentally, the average age of brides in 1922 France was 22, so the number has an interesting history with that story. However, I looked explored the life of Arthur Capel after watching Coco Before Chanel and discovered that he died on my birthday - December 22nd! Given Chanel's personal ties with No. 19 and No. 5 (Chanel encountered 5 paths to the cathedral at her orphanage), I am sure this date has something to do with commemorating his lasting impact on her life and work, especially since he died in 1919, before its 1922 release. Chanel makes sure that this part of her life remained alive, just as "style remains."

P.S. I also learned at the table that smelling coffee beans cleanses your sense of smell.

1 comment:

  1. What an unusual and inviting essay! Very very interesting--you conjure up all kinds of images, of what must have been a glamorous department store in a big, bustling city, elegant perfume saleswomen who made a celebration with you of that big birthday, and the fascinating history (*and numerology!) associated with Coco Chanel and her perfume line.
    Most original!

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